City Series Part Five: Toronto

trump_toronto_skyline2.jpgIn March 2009, Jamie Woo and Suresh Doss, authors of the Torontoist , article Summing Up Toronto in Six Words, asked random people on the streets of Toronto to describe the city in six words. What they discovered was how tricky it proved to be, “it took some people minutes-some people days-but what I and Suresh Doss of Spotlight Toronto saw was that people gave it real thought. They took the opportunity to reflect and consider the city around them.”

The answers?

“It’s the city that’s a home.”

“Interesting town full of little communities.”

“Open, diverse, safe, fun, business-y, materialistic.”

“Neighborhoods. Trails. Islands. Gastronomy. Bars. Culture.”

“Difficult, serious, hopeful, honest, underdog, and plaid.”

For current Mayor David Miller, Toronto is a “caring, just, strong, livable, creative city.” Even though Toronto, in many ways, has only a bit part on the world stage, it is the kind of city that leaves a lasting impression on its locals and on its visitors. For me, Toronto is an accessible, evolving, distinct, sociable, uncomplicated, and down to earth city.

So my question is this, how would you describe Toronto?

There’s only one way to find out.

History

Toronto is both the capital of Ontario, and Canada’s largest city at over two and half million people. Originally inhabited by Huron tribes, and before that, the Iroquois, the city of Toronto was established in 1793 by Governor John Graves Simcoe, roughly seventy-five years before Confederation, and was called York, after Prince Albert, Duke of York and Albany.

York became the capital of Upper Canada after Simcoe believed it to be less vulnerable to American attack than its first capital Newark, which is now Niagara-on-the-Lake. Simcoe was right up until 1813 when American forces took Fort York as part of the War of 1812. After five days of relentless burning and plundering, York surrendered, and was left to clean up the mess. Twenty-one years later, York became known as Toronto, an Iroquois name meaning, “place where trees stand in water,” and has remained to be one of Canada’s most vibrant, ethnically diverse, and exciting cities to visit.

Today, Toronto is at the heart of the Greater Toronto Area (GTA), a region made up of smaller cities, such as Etobicoke and Scarborough, and that increases Toronto’s population by about five million.  But for such a small city on the world stage, Toronto refuses to get lost in the mix. The CN Tower is a symbol of Toronto in many ways, but did you know the longest street in the world, at 1,896km (1,178miles), starts in Toronto? That Toronto his often called the ‘Hollywood of the North,’ and that it is recognized as one of the most multicultural cities in the world? Events like Toronto’s Gay Pride Parade shut down entire neighborhoods and city blocks, while alternate events such as the Toronto International Film Festival see film’s biggest and hottest stars as regular visitors. Yet finding an outdoor rink in one of Toronto’s hundreds of neighborhood parks, attending the CNE (Canadian National Exhibition and Fair), or getting soft serve from an ice cream truck on Queen St. is what Torontonians would rather do.

You see, it’s the city that thinks it’s a town, big enough for the world-renowned museums, tall skyscrapers, and cosmopolitan restaurants, but small enough to feel like the community it has remained to be for the last 175 years.

Travel, Accommodations and How to Navigate

Pearson International Airport is a busy, busy airport. It has a relatively new terminal (a few years old), and an even newer inter-terminal train system. It is located an easy twenty minutes from downtown, so a cab ride won’t break the bank. It is possible to fly into smaller airports in surrounding cities, but I’d advise against it simply for the complication.

The best time to visit Toronto is in the spring. Canadian winters are unpredictable; sometimes they are unbearably cold, while other times they are unseasonably mild (which it is, as I currently write this). Pearson has been known to shut down completely in light of storms, so to forgo any of that stressful nonsense, find time to visit in warmer, more pleasant weather. Toronto summers are always, without fail, extremely humid and hot. While this is not ideal for people like me, Toronto really opens its doors in the summer, and most of the best festivals, and events occur during the warmer months.

Toronto does have one of the most accessible public transportation systems in North America, so renting a car is not entirely necessary. Unless you’re planning to leave Toronto proper, and visit other cities such as Niagara Falls or Kingston, then catching a cab, or taking any number of streetcars, subways and buses is both an affordable and easy option over renting a car. Toronto is a walking city and is very straightforward in terms of its streets, which were, much like New York City, built on an East/West, North/South grid.

Like any city, Toronto has hundreds and hundreds of hotels, motels, and short-term apartment rentals available. There’s everything from the Hilton, to the Travelodge, so there’s no shortage of options for every need. Check Hotwire, or visit the website of the hotel you typically stay in during vacations. Toronto is bound to have what you’re looking for. That said, I have two hotel suggestions, one slightly more expensive than the first, but both reasonable, and well-worth it.

The Drake, a boutique hotel located far along Queen St. West, is in the center of all the action. It’s rooftop bar alone is host to innumerable parties and soirees, but it’s unique and one of a kind rooms are a total reflection of the neighborhood in which it exists: eclectic, modern, slightly swank, and a little rough around the edges. A simple crash pad starts at $189 a night, so it’s not for everybody. Then again, sometimes a little luxury is good for the soul. Promotions and packages are available, so check the website regularly.

The Fairmont Royal York was once the tallest building in Toronto, and while this architectural gem is surrounded by dozens of skyscrapers today, it doesn’t seem to be dwarfed by its new neighbors. If anything, it stands out more than ever before, and its no surprise either. Located in the center of the city, the Royal York is a hit for business people and tourists alike, and its history alone is appealing even for the most discerning folk. As you might have guessed, its accommodations are pricy. I mention the Royal York for many reasons, but mainly because of its important connections to Toronto’s past. This is a hotel that existed long before any of the others. It’s Toronto’s answer to the Plaza, or the Chateau Marmont, hotels that are known for their quality service, stunning rooms, and rich history. Who can argue with that?

Places Every Tourist Visits

The CN Tower, until recently, was the tallest free-standing structure in the world. It’s Toronto’s trademark, and its piece de resistance, so without it, Toronto’s skyline would be lackluster and ordinary. As someone who has never climbed the CN Tower, I can say that it is not a complete must during your visit to Toronto. But then again, who knows what I could be missing?

The Art Gallery of Ontario, better known as the AGO, was recently renovated and redesigned by world-renowned architect Frank Gehry. Located along Dundas St., between McCaul and Beverly Streets, the AGO features work prominently by Canadians, but also by artists from all over the world. At the moment, a King Tut exhibition is happening at the AGO, as well as shows on artist Alexander Calder, former fashion photographer Edward Steichan, and American Prints of the Great Depression. The Henry Moore sculpture outside is a popular hangout for children who love to climb all over it, and its new re-design is welcoming a huge influx of international visitors. Admission is $18 dollars (probably to help pay for the hefty renovation), and the gallery is closed on Mondays, so be warned. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve forgotten this, only to be reminded at the locked doors.

The Distillery is a stunning piece of architecture, a real tribute to Toronto’s rich and vast history, and it happens to be a very fun and popular little hub of restaurants and bars. Constantly filmed and photographed for various media outlets, the Distillery is fast becoming the place to live. I like to go for a drink with friends, and walk around its cobblestone paths, as it feels a bit like stepping back in time. That said, it can be a little overpriced, depending on what restaurant or bar you choose, and always keep change on hand for parking. Avoid it on weekends if you can, and arrive a little before dinner to avoid the rush. It is a hub for business people looking for that post-work drink with co-workers.

The Eaton Center is a huge, and airy shopping center full to the brim of every store you could possibly imagine. I say airy because it has a glass dome roof that runs the entire length of the mall, and that takes up an entire city block.  I go to the Eaton Center for two reasons: it has the largest H&M in the entire city (Toronto has something like eight H&M’s), and Urban Outfitters. Of course, both these stores are in the States too, so I suggest going to the Hudson’s Bay Company, Canada’s oldest department store. If you’re looking for more unique shops, walk the five or six blocks west of the Eaton Center on Queen St. and you’ve reached Queen St. West, a very popular and busy shopping district.

Also located on Queen St. West is MuchMusic, Canada’s answer to MTV (and with no less pomp and circumstance).  It tapes live shows everyday, most of which require audiences, so check their website about getting free tickets. Back when I was a thirteen year old, I saw *N SYNC in all their glory when they were visiting MuchMusic for some show. I was walking by on chance, and I tell you, that one glimpse of Justin Timberlake set my heart aflutter for weeks. Oh boy. Just imagine what it would have been like had I actually been in the audience!  But before you go checking to see when Robert Pattinson is due for a visit, walking by (as I did) and peering through the windows, is awesome in and of itself. You never know who you might see!

Unique Places for Fabulous Chicks

Reliable Fish and Chips, 954 Queen St. E., Leslieville

I never eat fish on a regular basis, but if I’m in Leslieville, a Toronto neighborhood metamorphosing as we speak into a rather chic little area, I’ll eat at Reliable Fish & Chips. It’s low-key, friendly, and the light and crispy batter on the fish is lovely (the kind of batter you willingly eat and enjoy, not work your way around, and leave on the sides of your plate). It’s simple food, no bells and whistles, and it’s affordable.  Just remember, they only accept cash, so make sure to have some on you before you order.

Honest Ed’s, on the corner of Bloor St. and Bathurst St., The Annex

Honest Ed’s is the most wonderful place ever, and it is very possible to get lost within its depths. It’s large, and cheap, and sells just about everything you could ever need. Built by theatre mogul Ed Mirvish, Honest Ed’s is touted as something of an attraction. The marquee alone, which fills the Bathurst and Bloor intersection with blinding light, is only the beginning to the craziness that lies beyond its doors. I loved this place as a kid. I love it as an adult. I’ll love it as an old woman too.

St. Lawrence Market, Front St.

The St. Lawrence Market is where I go to get much of the food I love, like tofu and homemade pasta. It’s housed in an amazing old warehouse, not far from Queen’s Quay, and has some of the best butchers, bakers, and candlestick makers in the city. It’s a regular stop for the locals, and a definite stop for any visitor to Toronto. There are two floors, so don’t forget to visit both. And grab a bite to eat while you’re at it. It’ll be cheap and delicious, a brilliant combination.

Kensington Market, between Spadina Ave. and Bathurst St., Kensington

Kensington Market is Toronto’s only year-round outdoor market that features everything from independently owned grocers, or super chic little boutiques. The Blue Banana is my absolute favorite Kensington stop, a store with great coffee, and an amazing ability to have exactly the right present for all my friends. I try to go there whenever a friend has a birthday coming up.

United Bakery and Restaurant, on the corner of Lawrence Ave. and Bathurst St.

When I had braces between the ages of fifteen and seventeen, there was very little I could eat after visits to the orthodontist that didn’t cause my already sore teeth more pain, so my mum always took me to the United Bakery for some delicious split pea soup and stuffed cabbage. This place is buzzing, and the food is bloody good: comfort food, without the fuss. It has the air of a community. Heck, I even met the former mayor of Toronto there while nibbling on my delicious Jewish bagel slathered in jam. It’s a taste of the real Toronto, the Toronto still untouched by modern renovation, and posh upscale. There’s something authentic about an old school restaurant, and a cheap cup of coffee in a diner filled with local color. It’s a haunt for many, and I’m proud to say it’s a haunt of mine too.

What Made This Chick Fall in Love with Toronto

I am biased when it comes to Toronto, since it is indeed the city in which I was born and, for the most part, raised. It is a city that is easy to love, easy to visit and navigate, and easy to live in. It is what I like to think of as the smaller New York City, but no less culturally diverse, historically minded, and fun. Toronto is jam packed with the most amazing restaurants and neighborhoods. I’ve seen some of the best local and international bands at nearly every single one of its concert venues, and immersed myself completely within its theatre community.

The more I learn about Toronto, the more I love Toronto. It is a city that is hard to leave. And because it is so culturally diverse, traveling within Toronto always feels a little like traveling the world: Little Italy, Chinatown, Greektown, they’re all incredible neighborhoods with incredible stories to tell. I’d say it’s a pretty fantastic place to raise kids too. So while I’m proud to say I was born in Canada, I’m even more proud to say I was born in Toronto. After all, “it’s the city that’s a home.”

Jasmin was born in Toronto on a crisp winter morning twenty-two years ago, and though she has fond memories of Toronto as a kid, she much prefers the Toronto she has now, where art galleries, concerts, and bistros abound. Upon each visit into Toronto, Jasmin has a routine: greek pies from Athens Bakery on the Danforth, a latte from Mercury Espresso Bar on Queen St. E., and a soft serve twisty cone from the first ice cream truck she can find. Though not in any particular order.

Photo from here.

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